Walking the South Downs Way: Planning Your Adventure

by Holly Worton | Jul 3, 2020

Are you thinking about walking the South Downs Way? This is my complete guide on how to get started planning your journey. I’ve walked the South Downs Way twice—in 2015 and in 2019—and it’s probably my favorite long-distance trail (at least for now!). I hope this guide helps you to plan your South Downs journey.

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Why I hiked the South Downs Way

I had been wanting to hike the Camino de Santiago for ages, but I had never done more than a simple day hike. I thought that walking the South Downs Way would be a fun outdoor adventure that would give me hiking experience for a longer trail like the Camino. I was right! I made many mistakes, and I learned so much along the Way.

With each long-distance trail, I learn something new about myself and I fine-tune my planning. Each trip helps me to improve my ability to have a joy-filled journey.

Where does the South Downs Way start and finish?

The South Downs Way is a National Trail that runs from Winchester in the west to Eastbourne in the east, and it traverses the South Downs National Park. Winchester is a small city and Eastbourne is a large town—both have rail stations and plenty of services. You’l be able to find plenty of places to stay the night if you need to at the start or the end of your journey, and you’ll find many shops and restaurants in both.

South Downs Way route description

Here’s what you can expect on the South Downs Way:

A sloping trail that winds through woodland and farmland for 100 miles, heading steeply uphill in the mornings to the ridge of the South Downs, and downhill in the evenings as you approach your accommodation for the night.
A wealth of ancient historical sites, from Bronze Age barrows to a surprisingly well preserved Roman villa located not too far off the trail.
The very occasional crossing of busy A-roads, both on foot and via bridge or tunnel.
Spectacular sea views as you near the end of the journey, and views of the River Ouse near Southease and the River Arun as you approach Arundel.
Seemingly endless hours of glorious nature, often giving you the feeling of being completely enveloped by never-ending woods and fields, with the only sign of civilization being farms or tiny villages off in the distance.
Accommodation ranging from tiny inns, B&Bs, and the occasional youth hostel or bunkhouse. Wild camping is not permitted in the National Park, but there are campsites along the trail.

Which direction should you hike the South Downs Way?

The guidebook that I used (Trailblazer) mapped out the trail from west to east, and that’s how I walked it both times. It feels much more exciting to end the journey at the sea near Eastbourne than it does in Winchester. Also, the western end of the trail has been shifted from Winchester Cathedral to the City Mill, making it even less of a spectacular end to the journey. I’d recommend starting the trail in Winchester and ending in Eastbourne.

How long is the South Downs Way?

The South Downs Way is 100 miles (160 km) in length. However, because most of the trail follows the top of a ridge, most accommodation options are down in the valleys below, requiring an extra mile or so of hiking to and from the trail. Your entire South Downs journey will surely be more than 100 miles!

How long does it take to hike the South Downs Way?

It depends on your walking style. I like to take my time and really enjoy the journey. I also like to have fairly short walking days. I’m not the kind of person who likes to wake up at the crack of dawn, head out on the trail, and cruise into my accommodation just before nightfall.

The first time I walked the South Downs Way, I did it in 8 days. Each day was split up between 10-20 miles (16-30 km). The second time, I wanted to avoid that long 20 mile (30 km) day, so I added a ninth day to my journey. Each day of walking was split up between 10-12.5 miles (16-20 km). I certainly could have walked longer days, but 10-12 miles seems to be my preferred length for each day on a long-distance trail.

Note that my 8-9 day journey does not include rest days. Walking only 10-12 miles a day, I did not feel the need to have a rest day long the route. However, many other (and older) walkers that I met along the Way in 2019 did take a rest day about halfway through—some in Lewes, some near Amberley. Lewes is a fairly large town with lots of shops, restaurants, and B&Bs, and is the perfect place to have a rest day.

How hard is the South Downs Way?

Assuming you’re in fairly decent shape, not hard at all. However, I made a lot of mistakes the first time I walked the trail in 2015, which I tell about in detail in my book Alone on the South Downs Way. In 2019, I was able to rectify those errors, making for a very different experience on the trail. Every individual’s experience on the South Downs will be different.

For me, the most important lesson was that I find it very, very hard to walk in the heat of the summer. People love to make jokes about how terrible Britain’s summers are, but England had a heatwave in the week that I walked the trail in 2015, making it a fairly miserable experience at times. I had to carry extra water, which made for a very heavy pack at times—something I wasn’t used to. Now I plan my long distance walks in spring and autumn.

Lesson: know yourself, know your preferences, and know your limits. Then, plan your journey to accommodate your own personal needs.

Is the South Downs Way well signposted?

Yes! In fact, the first time I walked the trail, I didn’t even carry a map—I only brought my Trailblazer guide with me. The second time, I did buy the South Downs Way Adventure Atlas (linked at the end of this post), but I don’t think I used it once. The trail is very well marked. You just need to keep your eyes open, stay alert, and read the signs when they appear!

I did get lost on more than one occasion when I first walked the trail in 2015, but it was because I wasn’t paying attention. Any navigation errors were my fault entirely. In fact, one of the things that I love so much about National Trails like the South Downs Way is that they’re very well signposted. I can walk through beautiful settings for miles, and not have to worry about navigating or getting a map and compass out. It’s long-distance hiking made easy!

When is the best time to hike the South Downs Way?

This all depends on your own personal preferences. I did my first South Downs hike at the end of June, beginning of July. This was far too hot and sunny for my preferences, so the second time I walked it the first week of September. The weather was perfect: very windy on one day, but otherwise excellent. It was warm but not hot, and I didn’t have to carry as much water as I did the first time around.

The summer months are the driest months (usually) in southeast England. As you can imagine, this is also the high season for the trail. But personally, I’d rather have cooler days for walking and take the risk of rain. My preferred months for walking are now April and September.

How much does it cost to hike the South Downs Way?

In 2015, I budgeted £700 for the eight days. This broke down into seven nights of accommodation at an average of £50 each night, and eight days of food at £30 per day, plus a single rail ticket from where I live in Surrey to Winchester, and then another single back from Eastbourne. In total, I spent £400 on accommodation and about £20-25 each day on food: a sandwich cost about £3 and dinner came in just under £20 each evening. Breakfast was always included with my accommodation, whether I was staying at a pub, a B&B, or an inn. The total cost of my 2015 South Downs journey came in at £643, just under my estimate.

In 2019, accommodation alone cost me £617.50. That’s partly because I splurged on my first night’s accommodation in Exton and partly because I extended my journey an extra night. Also, B&Bs are more expensive now than they were four years ago. In 2019, I spent just over £800.

You might end up spending less. Or you might spend more, if you enjoy having more than a pint of beer to relax after a long day’s walk. I never had more than one pint with my dinner.

This estimate does not include gear I purchased specifically for my first South Downs walk, such as my backpack, hiking boots, and items of clothing. These are things that I have been able to re-use for day walks and future long-distance trails.

Can you walk the South Downs Way on a tight budget?

Absolutely. Instead of staying at B&Bs, you could camp or stay at hostels. Wild camping is not permitted in the National Park, but there are campgrounds, bunkhouses, and hostels all along the route. You could bring your own food and cook your own meals with a camping stove.

Is it safe for women to do on their own?

Yes! I do a lot of solo walking in England, and I always feel safe. There was no time on the South Downs Way when I felt unsafe or in danger, even during the long stretches where I was utterly alone, with no other walkers or cyclists crossing my path. I never questioned whether it was safe to be a woman alone walking the South Downs Way.

However, if you choose to walk alone, you need to be aware that you must be totally self-reliant: be vigilant about the weather, the temperature, and your water supply, especially when walking in the warmer months of the year. You must be sure that you set out each morning with more than enough water to drink, and food to keep you going until you arrive at your evening destination. I cannot stress this enough.

I know this sounds ridiculous, but do not underestimate how hot it can be in England when you’re walking alone out in the sun: carry more than enough water, and cover your head. That’s all the safety you need to be concerned about. Obviously, follow your own common sense, and stay aware of your surroundings. If something doesn’t feel right, pay attention to that. Ultimately, only you are responsible for your own personal safety.

South Downs Way baggage transfer

Both times, I carried everything on my back in my Osprey Kyte 36 backpack. However, some walkers prefer to carry a smaller daypack and have a larger piece of luggage transferred between each B&B. South Downs Discovery seems to be the go-to service for baggage transfer on the South Downs Way. They charge £22 per transfer for one bag and £27 per transfer for 2 bags. Note: if you’re splitting your South Downs Way journey into 8 days, that’s 8 transfers (£176 for one bag). It can get pricey!

If you’re reasonably fit and healthy, pack light and carry everything with you. In my experience, only older walkers or people with injuries use a baggage transfer service. However, do what works for you!

South Downs Way accommodation

Book well in advance if you want to make things easy on yourself. I find that I need to book accommodation on a National Trail about three months in advance in order to get reservations in exactly the villages where I want to stay. In 2015, I booked two months before my departure, and it was a bit stressful. I had to make many, many phone calls before I was able to book everything.

Exton

The first time, I stayed two miles away in Droxford at the White Horse Inn and enjoyed the simple room and excellent service. If you book far enough in advance, you should be able to find availability in Exton village at the Manor House—which I thoroughly enjoyed on my second walk—or one mile away at the Corhampton Lane Farm, which is highly recommended in my guidebook. Meonstoke, a nearby village, is another option for accommodation. When you start booking your accommodation for your South Downs walk, be sure to start with Exton, which will be the trickiest place to find somewhere to stay.

Buriton

I stayed at Nursted Farm both times, which I absolutely loved, and I highly recommend it. The hosts were an absolute delight, and my room and bathroom were spacious and comfortable. The farm is, however, two miles off the Way, and it’s in the middle of nowhere, so there aren’t any options for dinner other than heading into Petersfield or Buriton. If you prefer accommodation in the village of Buriton, the Master Robert Inn is one option. However, I love the peaceful farm atmosphere at Nursted.

Cocking

Both times, I stayed at Moonlight Cottage, and I highly recommend them for both a comfortable, quiet room and a great breakfast and packed lunch. They have a gorgeous garden that’s very comfortable to relax in after a long walk as it gets shady in the afternoon. They’re very organized with breakfast orders and also with packed lunch orders, which was a delight. Now that the local pub has closed, and they’re offering dinners, I really enjoyed the family-style dinner with other walkers.

Amberley

The first time, I stayed at Little Nailards, which is a private home that only opens up as a B&B when other accommodation is not available, but this was my absolute favorite place that I stayed along the Way in 2015. The house and garden were comfortable and beautiful, and my hosts were wonderful.

On my second journey, I stayed at The Sportsman, which was perfect for both accommodation and dinner. Be sure to ask for a room with a view on the backside of the property, so you can enjoy the Amberley Wildbrooks. The views are truly spectacular.

Bramber

Both times, I stayed at the Castle Inn Hotel: the first time in a spacious room and an en suite bathroom, the second time in a tiny room just big enough to fit the bed and a little table and chair (also with an en suite bathroom). The Castle Inn Hotel has its own restaurant, and there are a couple of others nearby. Bramber’s sister village of Upper Beeding, which is equally close to the Way, seems to have more facilities in the village itself, including a large shop and a pharmacy, should you need it.

Pyecombe

There are a couple of options in this tiny little village. I stayed at Tallai House, which was lovely and comfortable with a delicious breakfast. However, the fact that they ask walkers not to wash clothes in the bathroom—and yet fail to offer another alternative—is quite frankly ridiculous for a B&B located on the South Downs Way. It clearly does not cater to walkers, and for that reason, I’d recommend booking elsewhere if you can. I heard good things about Kingsley House B&B, which is on the same street at Tallai House. Duck Lodge B&B is another option.

Lewes

I stayed at 1 Garden Cottages, which I really enjoyed, with an en suite bathroom and a spacious room. My host was accommodating with information regarding the local area, including recommending an excellent pub just steps from the B&B where I had a wonderful dinner. However, staying at this location added an extra mile walk to my journey, being all the way on the other side of town. And Lewes is not on the South Downs Way, but a couple of miles off the route, so I’d really recommend you avoid staying here—unless you want to take advantage of the shops and facilities that a large town has to offer. Some people will plan a rest day in Lewes before resuming the second half of their walk on the South Downs.

Kingston-near-Lewes

Learn from my mistake, and stay in Kingston, not Lewes. Nightingales B&B has the best mattresses I’ve ever slept on—I know this sounds ridiculous, but they were fantastic—and Jean, the host, is absolutely lovely, as is her assistant, Claude, the cat. It’s just a short walk to the village pub for dinner, which has excellent Sunday roasts. Kingston is a charming, quiet place to stay not too far off the trail.

Alfriston

The first time, I stayed at Riverdale House, a ten-minute walk from the main village. I had a lovely room with a bathroom next to it, and an excellent breakfast. The hosts were very attentive. However, I highly recommend booking a B&B in the central part of the village, which has several historical options to choose from, including The Star Inn, which is said to date back to 1345, and is where I stayed when I walked the Eastbourne-Alfriston-Eastbourne loop.

The second time I walked the Way, I stayed at The George Inn, which is where I’ve always eaten dinner, and where I was upgraded to the spacious suite. It’s definitely my favorite of all three places I stayed in Alfriston. It’s a beautiful old property, and the food is fantastic. Plus, it’s so lovely to stay in the main village.

South Downs Way resources

There are three main resources I recommend:

South Downs Way: Winchester to Eastbourne (Trailblazer Guide), by Jim Manthorpe and Daniel McCrohan
South Downs Way Adventure Atlas
Alone on the South Downs Way: A Tale of Two Journeys from Winchester to Eastbourne, by Holly Worton (me!)

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